Ukyio-e (浮世絵) woodblock prints and the culture surrounding Edo’s chōnin (町人)

Woodblock prints called ukiyo-e (浮世絵, literally ‘pictures of the floating world’) became a popular art form during Japan’s Edo period (1603-1868). Their depictions were closely tied to the cultural practices cultivated by chōnin (町人), members of the merchant class, who emerged as the patreons of Edo’s urban entertainment and culture.

While the shogunate formed the politicial authority of the time, the merchant class became more and more dominant in influencing urban culture in the thriving economic centres of Edo (former Tokyo), Osaka and Kyoto. This created quite a bit of tension, however; the social hierarchy envisioned by the shogunate was based on Confucian values and cast merchants as part of the lowest class. This was based on the assumption that merchants did neither use mind (like scholars) nor muscles (like farmers and artisants) to produce something of ‘value’ but were rather, in their ‘excessive accumulation of wealth’, a threat and disturbance to the social order.

‘The Prosperty of the Four Classes’, Utagawa Kunisai, 1869.

This low, social position was contrasted with the growing financial means and, therefore, cultural influence which the chōnin managed to accumulate during the course of the 17th century. While the shogunate followed rationalistic Neo-Confucian principles, the merchant class was guided by the hedonistic celebration of the ‘floating world’ (浮世, ukiyo). This term describes the transient, unreliable world into which one is born into but aims to escape through Buddhist practices such as meditation and abstinence. Edo’s merchants turned this believe on it’s head not by resisting but rather celebrating and seeking out everyday forms of pleasure and entertainment.

Ukiyo-e woodblock prints became a means to visually capture the varied amusements of the ‘floating world’. Special occassions such as appreciating the seasonal flowers in a nearby temple garden were equally depicted as were the occassional visit to a local sentō (銭湯, bathing house). Travel scenes and popular spots aimed to inspire touristic journeys while well-known scenes from folk tales and history served as everyday entertainment. In terms of human subjects, beautiful and stylish men and women, represented most commonly by kabuki actors and courtesans, were equally among the favoured subjects ofukiyo-e artists. Being clad in the latest fashion and/or showing off their personal style, actors and courtesans became trend setters for dress and design through these easily distributed prints.

‘A Man and Two Women at a Teahouse at Wada no Ura Overlooking the Sea’, Harunobu Suzuki, 1750s.
‘The Courtesan Hanaōgi of the Ōgiya’, Ichirakutei Eisui, 1790s.

Another popular but slightly less often discussed cultural figure was the cha-ya musume (茶屋娘, literally ‘teahouse daugther’). Having a tea and some snacks at a cha-ya was a popular leisure activity. While these establishments were often run by elderly couples, the tactic to employ young, attractive women to serve tea and have a bit of a chat with customers quickly became a marketing strategy.

A quite famous cha-ya musume was Naniwaya Okita (難波屋, born 1778), who was a female employee of a cha-ya located close to the famous Buddhist temple Sensō-ji. She became one of the favourite subjects of ukiyo-e artist Kitagawa Utamaro, whom he enshrined as one of the ‘three beauties of the present day’ in a print of the same name. Due to the fame she gained through the prints, Okita became the ‘poster girl’ of the shop, with some customers believed to travel far and white for a glimpse of this fair young lady.

‘Naniwaya Okita’, Kitagawa Utamaro, 1793.
‘Three Beauties of the Present Day’, Kitagawa Utamaro,1792–93.

By studying ukiyo-e, we can learn a lot about the popular culture which was built on the hedonistic practices and preferences of the urban working classes of Edo Japan. With their love for entertainemt and fun, they were an annoyance to the ruling shogunate, but created a culture which many of us still can relate to today.

Eine deutsche Version des Artikels findet ihr auf JAPANDIGEST: https://www.japandigest.de/kulturerbe/geschichte/kunsthandwerk/ukiyo-e/

An Introduction to Kimono Styles of Japan‘s Taisho Period (1912-26): The Taisho Roman Style of Female Students

At the Yokimono Japanese Christmas Market in December 2022, I collaborated with my good friend Sonoe Sugawara of Furuki Yo-Kimono Vintage on a demonstration and talk of Taisho period kimono styles. This turbulent era gave birth to some eclectic kimono styles which were based on a new approach towards Japanese and Western modes of dress. One of the styles we introduced was the Taisho Roman (大正ロマン) style of female students.

Sonoe demonstrated how to recreate the so-called ‘Taisho Roman‘ style, also known as the hai-kara style, with a 1920s silver and purple vintage kimono and red hakama from her shop.

In general, Taisho Roman (大正浪漫, or 大正ロマン) refers to the ideals of romanticism which were expressed by a quirky reinterpretation of traditional culture during this time. Kimono of this decade often featured flowing, asymmetrical designs, with playful and whimsical motifs such as flowers, birds, and butterflies. It was also common to see the use of luxurious fabrics such as silk and satin, and the incorporation of Western-style elements such as lace and embroidery. The Taisho Roman kimono style became known for its bright colours and bold, graphic patterns such as the yabane (矢羽, arrow feathers) pattern.

Yabane pattern in purple. Image Source: nippon.com

The word hai-kara (ハイカラー) derives from the word ‘high collar’ on the other hand and refers to the, for Japanese eyes, unusual collar style of shirts of this time. Victorian-style blouses became popular with young Japanese women of the middle class who wore these as undergarments, with the collar and cuffs peaking out under the kimono. The term also more generally meant ‘to dress in the latest western fashion‘ which demonstrates the fashion-forward way of thinking of these young women.

Besides blouses, women started to adopt hakama which were previously exclusively reserved for men. With more women entering education, female students were in need of a uniform which allowed them to participate in all school activities on the same level as the boys. Debates on movement and the body resulted in the decision to modify men‘s hakama trousers by turning them into hakama skirts for young women.

Toyohara Chikanobu (楊洲周延),「真美人 十四 洋傘をさす女学生」(Meiji 30, 1897).
© Ōta Memorial Museum of Art (太田記念美術館), Tokyo.
Young women wearing a short skirt, umbrella and lace shoes. Source unknown.

This hakama style was considered to allow for unrestricted movements of the hip and legs. This was particular important in a time when physical education became part of the school curriculum, and sports of all kinds became popular leisure activities. Shoes also played a part in this, with the traditional sandal footwear of geta being replaced by lace shoes and boots. The new mode of transportation, the bicycle, became favoured and later representative of the forward-thinking young men and women who were considered to built a bright future for the Japanese nation.

Yumeji Takehisa (竹久夢二), ‘Tennis’ (post-1900s).
Female student wearing a meisen kimono and haori combined with a women‘s hakama. Source unknown.

Another popular reference of the style is the manga Haikara-San: Here Comes Miss Modern (はいからさんが通る haikara-san ga tōru, 1975-77) by Waki Yamato. The manga that tells the story of Benio Hanamura, a young woman living in Tokyo in the 20th century. Benio is laballed as a ‘tomboy‘ with a big interest in Western culture and fashion. This sets her apart from and often creates a conflict with the more conservative Japanese women of her time. As a female student, she often wears a yabane-patterned furisode kimono and hakama combination as depicted below.

Cover picture of はいからさんが通る (1975-77) by Waki Yamato.
Panel on page 6 of はいからさんが通る (1975-77) by Waki Yamato.

Overall, the Taisho Roman kimono style was a reflection of the era’s fascination with modernity, individualism, and self-expression, and represented a departure from the more rigid and feminine conservative styles that had come before it.

Idol Identity Construction in Morning Musume モーニング娘。- ‘The Story of Noisy Girls’『女子かしまし物語』(2014)

The 2004 music video to Morning Musume‘s ‘The Story of Noisy Girls’ (女子かしまし物語, Joshi Kashimashi Mongatari) discloses a lot about the deliberate identity construction of idols. The video also demonstrates the way in which idol personas are constructed through dress. In this short article, I will start to unwrap some of the most significant aspects of idol identity construction and dress.

Morning Musume, an extremely popular Japanese female idol group which was formed in 1997 by singer-songwriter turned producer Tsunku, shaped the landscape of female idols particularly in the late 1990s and 2000s. New members would be casted on a regular basis, forming different ‘generations’. Members would eventually graduate from the group; the longer a girl stayed in the band, the more popular she is generally considered to be.

To gain popularity with fans, and therefore be allowed to stay in the band for a long time, members would create distinct personalities to make themselves differentiable from their peers. ‘The Story of Noisy Girls’ focuses on this practice, with the girls presenting their individuality through the lyrics, dress and presentation.

Below are the lyrics of member Nozomi Tsuji which showcase precisely how identity constructions within this song works:

「OK!辻希美さん」 オイ!
合コン日時が 決まった日
人数溢れて 呼べない
送っちゃいけないその子に
送信したらしい…
「ヘコむ~」
「あるある」
Group: "OK! Nozomi Tsuji"
Group: "Upon deciding the date/time for her gōkon (singles' party)
(she realised that) there's one girl too many.
Seems like she's contacting
The girl who she can't invite..."
Nozomi: "I'm so sad (because you can't come)"
Group: "I can see it (happening like this)"

Nozomi’s personality is presented as being interested in dating. She is framed as organising gōkon / single parties which hint at the fact that she is looking for a boyfriend herself. Because she got too excited about the prospects, she ended up inviting one girl too many. While this is marked as an imaginary scenario (idol groups are known to follow a strict ‘no dating’ policy), the band members confirm that this is a scenario which could happen in real life.

This presentation aligns with the persona Nozomi has since maintained in the Japanese media. In 2007, she got married to actor Taiyo Suguira in a shot-gun style wedding. Nozomi was already pregnant at that point, and the couple had three more children over the course of the next years. Her personal blog which she started in 2009 got extremely popular, and she was voted as an inspirational role model for young mothers. This demonstrates while idol identity is constructed, it often is based on the personality of the idol. This is arguably done to create a sense of ‘authenticity’ around the performers.

Authenticity is also important when it comes to the general lyrics of the song. These focus on the daily life of teenage girls and describe the fun and excitement of hanging out with friends, going shopping, and gossiping about boys. The lyrics also touch on the pressures that young girls face, such as the expectations to look pretty and act ladylike. This is the image which Morning Musume as a band wants to project; the members are oridnary teenage girls who ‘just wanna have fun’. They are the girls next door rather than the glamorous but unreachable celebrities seen in magazines.

Dress also plays an important role in constructing idol identity. In the video, Tsuji is wearing a seifuku-type school uniform, probably one of the most recognisable items of clothing not just of general Japanese society but also more specifically of idol dress.

While this on one hand marks her youth, another very important aspect of idol culture, it also pairs her with group member Kago Ai who is wearing the same outfit in the video. Their pairing is quite deliberate; having been nicknamed ‘the twins’ by fans, Tsuji and Kago formed the sub-group W later in 2004. While wearing a similar style of make-up, the two girls remain distinctable through their hairstyles.

Screenshot from the Making off: Morning Musume‘s ‘The Story of Noisy Girls (2004)

Idol dress also often makes a distinction between shifuku 私服 / ‘personal clothes’ and costumes worn on stage and in music videos. Idol music videos often show the boys and girls in their idol costumes as well as personal clothes. This is deliberately done to add another layer of authenticity – the persona of the idol aligns with their off-screen self, as is communicated through dress.

Tsuji and Kago are wearing the music video’s costumes in several shots throughout the video. Their clothes are identical, which is actually unusual for these costumes; while certainly aimed to visually unify, these costumes often get customised to perfectly fit the idols body and with it, perceived personality. Of course, in the case of Tsuji and Kago, it makes sense for them to wear the same costumes, as this once again strengthens the perception of their solidarity and sisterhood.

Colours plays an important part in idol dress as well; while this is not manageable for such a big group as Morning Musume, many idol bands use colours to differentiate the band members. The specific ‘member colour’ is also often perceived to be symbolic of the member’s persona. In ‘The Story of Noisy Girls’, colour is only used in a limited way, however; both Tsuji and Kago are wearing blue to once again signal unity.

In summary, we can say that dress plays a very important part in idol identity construction. With the need to carve out a distinctable persona, idols rely on dress and presentation to communicate their individuality to their fans. The most popular Japanese idols are arguably the ones whose personality aligns both on and off-screen – as demonstrated by ex-Morning Musume member Nozomi Tsuji.

Cardiff-Japanese Lecture Series: ‘Kimono (and) Fashion in Japan’

This online public lecture titled ‘Kimono (and) Fashion in Japan’ is part of the Cardiff-Japanese Lecture Series which aims to explore and understand aspects of language learning for those studying Japanese language and culture at Cardiff University, as well as various learners, teachers and researchers with an interest in Japan. The event is funded by the Japan Foundation, London.

Abstract
Both inside and outside of Japan, kimono is commonly framed as the national costume of Japan, bestowing the garment with notions of tradition and stability. However, ever since the establishment of a widespread fashion system in the Edo period (1603-1868), kimono was worn in different ways to communicate individual and social characteristics such as status, occupation, gender and taste.

This talk sheds some light on the fashionable influences on the garment by examining the following questions; how was kimono marketed by members of the merchant class, who became affluent during the Edo period? In which way did the moga (モガ, ‘modern girls’) of the Taisho period (1912-1926) wear the garment? How is the retro style, which gained prominence due to magazines such as Kimono Hime (Shōdensha, 2003-2018) and Kimono Anne (TAC Shuppan, 2019-), connected to the popularity of kimono as an everyday garment in recent decades?

Watch the recording of the lecture to find out more!

PhD Dissertation: ‘Negotiating Gendered Identities Through Dress: Kimono at the Coming-of-age Day in Contemporary Japan’

My PhD dissertation is now available online! Please refer to the details below for more information:

Becke, Carolin (2022) Negotiating Gendered Identities Through Dress: Kimono at the Coming-of-age Day in Contemporary Japan. PhD thesis, University of Sheffield.

This thesis is a study of kimono in contemporary Japan. It builds on and extends the literature on kimono by evaluating the garment’s role at the coming-of-age day. The coming-of-age day is a significant celebration aiming to inspire young women and men to become ‘good and upright adult citizen[s]‘ (Hendry 1981: 206). Being of immense importance to the construction of Japanese identity and culture, this thesis aims to explore how normative ideas, values and meanings surrounding coming-of-age dress are (re)framed in a contemporary setting.

Keywords: adulthood, class, coming-of-age, fashion, gender, identity, Japanese dress, kimono, subculture

Image Source: Tokyo Central Japanese Language School

Fashion Objects and the Changing Landscape of Fashion: ‘Sustaining Wellbeing through Kimono’

On May 6th, I spoke about my research on mental wellbeing and kimono at the Fashion Objects and the Changing Landscape of Fashion conference which was part of the Fashion Festival Debrecen. This research is inspired by a short, investigative article I wrote for the ‘Collecting Covid-19’ project initiated by the Centre for Digital Anthropology at University College London which encouraged scholars to collect responses to the unfolding covid-19 pandemic in early 2020.

During this time, I noticed a particular activeness of some of the kimono designers and enthusiasts I follow on Instagram; while life as we know it was drastically changing, members of the community reached towards kimono to provide them with a sense of stability and belonging in these challenging times. Imaginative challenges and exercises were set up to engage each other in creative endeavours, with individuals sharing images of affectionately coordinated kimono outfits which incorporated some of their newly learned kitsuke (kimono dressing) skills. I became fascinated by the ways in which the community took care of their mental health through an engagement with the garment, and decided to conduct some further research into the topic.

Besides the presentation at the conference, I am currently preparing a manuscript summarising my findings which I hope will become a published journal article titled ‘Sustaining Wellbeing through Kimono: Responses from the kimono fashion network to the covid-19 pandemic’.

ゼロ Zero – A new chapter!

It has been rather quiet on here for the last couple of months. Besides the continuous issues caused by the covid-19 pandemic, I also focused all my energy onto finishing my PhD thesis – which I managed to submit on April 14th! It was somewhat of a struggle until the last minute, but I’m really happy to have handed in now.

My mental health has been immensely affected by different aspects which come with doing a PhD. While I was ready to resign from the project during my third year, I managed to make it past the slump and emerged at the end of the tunnel stronger and wiser – and I mean this not just as in an academic sense.

With the support of many different individuals, I managed to identify and cultivate different approaches to deal with the stress which come from managing such a big project; practices based on mindfulness and meditation, (re-)engagements with artistic crafts projects, as well as physical exercise are now part of my daily routine to support my mental wellbeing.

Because remember; you are not alone.
And support is always available, no matter where you are in your journey.

この道の向こうに必ず 俺たちの朝がある

Japan House London: ‘RENOVATION: Kimono & Sustainability‘

The slow but steady lifting of restrictions in regards to COVID-19 in the last couple of weeks here in the UK means that, alas!, museums and exhibition spaces are opening their doors to the public again! I am more than thrilled about this – visiting museums and exhibitions form an important part of my life, providing me with inspirational insights into the practices of various artists and cultures … and, I have to admit, the experience is one that cannot be easily re-produced online (although there are definitely some mention-worthy attempts!).

So finally last week, after a long period of not engaging with art in this way, I ventured out to see Japan House‘s ‘RENOVATION: Kimono & Sustainability‘ display featuring contemporary kimono by texile artist Hiroko Takahashi (高橋理子).

Hiroko Takashashi is the founder of kimono brand HIROCOLEDGE which aims to blend ideas of art and fashion. The artist’s signature bold graphics consisting of geometric patterns such as circles and straight lines form part of most of her designs, representing the infiniteness found in the universe. There is a big focus on sustainability within the brand as well, and this is showcased through the kimono which are part of the ‘RENOVATION’ project displayed at Japan House.

As part of the project, Takahashi sourced old kimono and unstitched, de-colourised, and then re-dyed them with her signitaure geometric patterns. In the past, a significant aspect of everyday kimono culture was the continued re-use of the precious materials, which included the taking apart and re-tayloring of garments to make them into new pieces. This practice is mainly lost now, but Takahashi would like to re-engage consumers with this form of appreciation and usage.

This is a truly inspiring display, so I encourage anyone with an interest in fashion, textiles and design to visit Japan House and study the garments in close detail themselves!

Japan House
Renovation: Kimono & Sustainability
5 August – 7 September 2020

All images © Carolin Becke.

UCL Collecting Covid-19: ‘#stayhomekimono’

This short article analyses the practice behind the hashtag #stayhomekimono which encourages kimono lovers to dress up in kimono at home and share photographs with their friends and followers online. It was originally written for a website set up by UCL’s Center for Anthropology to collect ethnographic data on how people around the world are experiencing the appearance of COVID-19 in their lives, and can also be found here.

#stayhomekimono: Creative responses from kimono lovers to physical distancing

Instagram user opalmoonrabbit participating in the #stayhomekimono challenge.

Both within and outside of the country, kimono has long been regarded as Japan’s national and traditional costume with its own etiquette and customs. Diverse ways of approaching and appropriating the garment have been applied by different parts of the population however, with kimono being regarded as a fashionable, rather than ‘traditional’ garment at many different points throughout history. It was rather in a post-war context that an idea of ‘the kimono’ and ‘one way of wearing’ has been strengthened, with kimono dressing schools and conservatively-minded authors being the main drivers behind this movement. The now associated abundance of strict rules and regulations ended up alienating the majority of the Japanese population from kimono.

In the last decades however, kimono has seen a bit of a revival, with individuals picking up kimono more due to fashionable than traditional reasons, aiming to express their identity and taste through the playful combination of items and accessories to create personalised kimono ensembles. This new generation of kimono lovers are people of all genders and ages who are getting together with their friends and / or in special dressing groups to enjoy wearing kimono in a communal setting. Due to physical distancing restrictions being put on the Japanese population, these ventures are naturally now also being restricted. Some inspiring and creative ways of coping with the ‘new normal’ have come out of the community however which I would like to outline below.

Continue reading “UCL Collecting Covid-19: ‘#stayhomekimono’”

V&A: ‘Tim Walker: Wonderful Things’

The Tim Walker: Wonderful Things exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum was among the last exhibitions I got to see before the Covid-19 physical distancings restrictions were set in place in the UK. I have been a fan of Tim Walker and his work ever since I was in my late-teens; his photo collection book ‘Picture’ was prominently placed in the corridor of my apartment in Berlin, with my walls being decorated with his fantastic and strange images. Tim Walker might also be part of my decision to study fashion design at ESMOD which was the reason for me to move to the capital city of my native Germany in the first place (and which I only did for a year – the reality of the fashion industry somewhat caught up with me …). The exhibition took me back to those time, and was simultaneously a good opportunity to catch up with the more recent work of the artist.

The first room gave a brief history over the career of Tim Walker, with the walls being filled with photographic images forming a sort of retroperspective of the artist’s creative ventures so far. Among them was the famous image of musicians Mari Hirao and Yui Yamamoto clad in full geisha kimono ensembles while operating Gen h-4 flying machines you can see below. Another one was one of my favourites by the artist which portrays model Xiao Wen Ju placed into a recreation of Hokusai‘s popular ukiyo-e woodblock print The Great Wave off Kanagawa‘.

Mari Hirao and Yui Yamamoto operating Gen h-4 flying machines, Nagano, Japan (2016).
© Tim Walker Studio, London.
Xiao Wen Ju with Hokusai’s Great Wave of Kanagawa, Eglingham, Northumberland (2012).
© Tim Walker Studio, London.

The second part of the exhibition focused on the works Tim Walker exclusively created for the exhibition. Taking different objects, or: ‘wonderful things’ from the V&A’s vast and diverse collection as the basis of inspiration, the photographer created ten series of photographs which were creatively displayed in different sections. The displays really added an emphasis in emersing oneself in the world of the artist.

My particular favourite was probably the Lil’ Dragon photo series inspired by an 18th century Chinoiserie snuffbox depicting a dragon on its front. Walker himself said about the series: “As soon as I saw [the snuffbox] with a dragon on it, I visualised an empress walking her pet dragon at night and picking a flower that only blooms at full moon”. I love how Walker translated the colours and strange imagery into darkly romantic photographs using UV light in front of dark black backgrounds, with main model Ling Ling’s make-up being done by Berlin-based drag artist Hungry.

Snuffbox by unknown artist (c. 1745).
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Lil’ Dragon by Tim Walker (2018).
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Other sources of inspiration ranged from Aubrey Beardsley’s black ink illustrations over the storage objects used by textile conservators at the V&A all the way to the wardrobe of the eccentric British poet Edith Sitwell.

All in all this was a truly wonderful exhibition, showcasing the creative talent of the British fashion photographer in a very approriate, Walker-esque way. It would be great to see more exhibitions like this in the future, with different artists taking inspiration from the museum’s collection to create new commissions.

Viictoria & Albert Museum
Tim Walker: Wonderful Things
Exhibition Dates: 21 September 2019 – 22 March 2020

All images, unless otherwise stated, © Carolin Becke.

Keep on reading!