When thinking of the Coming-of-Age Day in Japan, one image often comes to mind: young women dressed in striking, long-sleeved kimono known as furisode. Worn to mark the transition into adulthood, these colourful garments are rich in tradition and also full of personal and cultural meaning.

But not all furisode look the same. At the 2024 Yokimono Japanese Market in London, we presented two very different styles: one based on historical dress from the Edo period, and one showing how the furisode is worn today. This article takes a closer look at both styles, explores the symbolism behind their patterns, and considers how the furisode continues to evolve while preserving its role in Japanese rites of passage.

This article is 1,000 words long.
🕒 Estimated reading time: 5 minutes.

What is a Furisode?

The furisode (振袖) is a type of formal kimono distinguished by its long, flowing sleeves ranging from 85 to 114 cm in length. The name literally translates to “swinging sleeves,” which sway elegantly with the wearer’s movements.

Historically, furisode were worn by young, unmarried women, signaling both youth and availability for marriage. The long sleeves were believed to make a woman appear more graceful and attractive.

After marriage, it was customary to “shorten the sleeves” either by literally cutting them or having the garment altered by a tailor to convert the furisode into a tomesode (留袖), a formal kimono for married women, which has shorter, more restrained sleeves. This physical alteration marked a symbolic transition from maidenhood to matrimony.

Today, they are most commonly associated with the Coming-of-Age Day (成人の日 / Seijin no Hi), a national holiday in Japan that celebrates young people turning 18 years old, which is, since 2022, the official age of adulthood. These garments are often elaborately decorated with seasonal or auspicious motifs, each carrying symbolic meaning.

Furisode Styles Now and Then

For the demonstration at the Yokimono Japanese Market, we showcased two contrasting styles of furisode:

• A historical Edo-period style, emphasizing traditional elegance and formal symbolism
• A contemporary adaptation, showing how the furisode is worn today with practical adjustments and personal flair

The Historical Style: Formal Elegance

Yui wore a furisode styled in the fashion of the Edo period (1603–1868), a time when clothing adhered to strict codes that reflected social status, age, and marital status. The kimono she wore was richly decorated with a variety of auspicious motifs, each symbolising positive qualities or well-wishes for the wearer:

• Chrysanthemum (菊, kiku) – A symbol of longevity and a floral emblem associated with the Imperial family
• The “Three Friends of Winter” (松竹梅, shōchikubai) – Plum, bamboo, and pine; a classic trio in East Asian art representing resilience, integrity, and perseverance during hardship
• Crane (鶴, tsuru) – A revered creature in Japanese folklore, symbolizing good fortune, fidelity, and long life

The hem of this kimono was left to trail on the floor, a style considered highly formal and luxurious. In the Edo period, this trailing hem was typical for young women of higher social rank attending important occasions. Today, such styling is rarely seen outside of stage performances or ceremonial roles, such as those of geiko and maiko, where traditional dress is preserved as part of cultural heritage.

The Contemporary Style: Practical and Personal

In contrast to the traditional Edo-period ensemble, Chizu wore a more contemporary interpretation of the furisode, illustrating how modern wearers adapt this formal garment to suit current lifestyles and practical needs. While the furisode remains a symbol of youth and celebration, today’s wearers often choose more accessible ways of styling it.

One key adaptation was the use of the o-hashori technique, where excess fabric at the hem is folded and tucked to create a clean, ankle-length silhouette. This method makes the kimono easier to walk in and helps prevent the fabric from dragging on the ground; an important consideration for modern-day mobility and comfort.

A particularly meaningful element of this outfit was the furisode itself. This kimono originally belonged to Sonoe Sugawara, owner of Furuki Yokimono Vintage and host of the Yokimono Market, who wore it at her own Coming-of-Age ceremony in 1995. It had been gifted to her by her grandmother and has been carefully preserved ever since.

Wearing this heirloom piece today highlights how kimono are not only fashion garments but also carriers of family history, memory, and generational continuity.

The Art of the Obi

No kimono is complete without the obi, a wide sash tied in the back. Tying the obi is both a technical skill and an art form, often requiring assistance due to the weight, length, and complexity of the knot.

The obi is often the most expensive part of a kimono outfit, as it must be stiff enough to hold elaborate shapes and usually features intricate weaving or embroidery. During the demonstration, Yuko showcased two different obi knots:

• A formal structured knot worn by Yui matching the grandeur of her historical furisode
• A rose-shaped obi knot worn by Chizu symbolic of blossoming youth and individuality

Secured with hidden cords and accessories, these knots balance visual beauty with structural durability meant to stay in place all day.

Watch the Presentation

🎥 See both styles brought to life in our full video recording below:

Our live demonstration at Yokimono Japanese Market highlighted not only the stunning beauty of furisode, but also the interplay of tradition and transformation that makes kimono culture so rich and enduring.

Whether worn in classical elegance or reimagined through a modern lens, the furisode remains a powerful expression of coming of age, identity, and celebration in Japan.

Sonoe Sugawara, owner of Furuki Yokimono Vintage
Yuko Sasaki, kimono dresser & stylist
Carolin Becke, kimono expert
Yui, model of the historical style
千珠 / Chizu, model of the contemporary style