Japan in Transition: Kimono and Everyday Life in Meiji-Japan (1868–1912)

In February, I had the incredible opportunity to curate “Japan in Transition: Everyday Life and Clothing in Historical Photographs”. The exhibition explored the Meiji era (1868–1912). This was a period when Japan was rapidly modernising, yet continuing to hold onto its deep-rooted traditions. I selected twenty historical photographs from German museum archives. These images reveal the tension between old and new in a way that still feels relevant today.

In this post, I’d love to introduce you to five key images from the exhibition. Each tells its own story of change, resilience, and the beauty of everyday life in Meiji-era Japan.


City Scapes of Meiji Japan

This lively street scene captures a typical shopping district likely in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). The scene takes place on a warm summer day. This image is fascinating because it shows the cultural shift of the era, highlighting the details of everyday life.

Straßenszene, 1880–1890. © Public Domain, Museum für Kunst & Gewerbe Hamburg.

Look closely at the umbrellas: The round, paper-covered wagasa (和傘, traditional Japanese parasols) stand alongside dark, European-style umbrellas. They offer a clear sign of Western influence seeping into daily routines. The headwear tells a smilar story: we see Japanese kasa (笠, straw hats) but also Western-style rounded hats.

In just one frame, this photograph reveals the Meiji era’s duality. The picture shows a society embracing modernity while, at the same time, it holds onto its traditions; one sunshade, one hat at a time.


Staged Traditions: The Art of Crafting ‘Exotic Japan’

This portrait by the Italian photographer Adolfo Farsari captures a young woman in a patterned kimono. She is delicately holding a temari toy (手毬), a traditional Japanese handball originally crafted from scrap fabric.

Sitzendes Mädchen mit einem Temari-Ball in der Hand, ca. 1890. © CC BY-NC-SA 4.0, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Ethnologisches Museum.

Farsari’s work gained renown for its blend of Western portrait aesthetics with Japanese motifs. This blend shaped an image of “exotic Japan” that fascinated European audiences. In this artwork, the temari ball, initially a humble children’s toy, becomes a symbol of craftsmanship and elegance. It represents the artful staging that defined much of Meiji-era photography.

Farsari’s approach mirrors that of other photographers of the time, like Kusakabe Kimbei, who similarly staged scenes to cater to Western tastes. Their studio portraits often featured stereotypical figures like ‘the geisha’ in an elaborate kimono.

These portraits preserved a romanticised vision of Japan even as country rapidly modernised. It was a play between documentation and cliché, between reality and the myth of “exotic Japan.”


Working Worlds: The Real Everyday

T. Enami “Fan Factory” offers a glimpse into the authentic working life of Meiji-era Japan. Unlike his earlier, more staged compositions, this photograph captures a family-run workshop.

T. Enami, Fan Factory, um 1900. © CC BY-SA 4.0, Münchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie.

The father, mother (both dressed in white), and three children collaborate in crafting uchiwa fans (団扇). These flat, rigid hand fans were practical everyday items, as well as also popular souvenirs and advertising tools. They were often adorned with landscapes, celebrities, or lucky symbols.

What makes this image so compelling is its unfiltered realism, highlighting the family’s collective labor. This effort was a hallmark of small businesses during the Meiji period, with every member contributing to the craft.

Many households blended established conventions with the practical demands of survival while Japan underwent sweeping social changes. These included school reforms that began to reshape education and labour dynamics. Children were increasingly encouraged to attend school. However, many families, particularly in rural areas or small workshops, still depended on their helping hands to sustain the household.


Moments of Leisure and Joy in a Changing World

This photograph of the banks of the Hozugawa River in Arashiyama, Kyoto, transports us to a place of timeless tranquility. It was a retreat that drew people from all walks of life during the 19th century.

An den Ufern des Flusses Hozugawa in Arashiyama, Kyoto, 1860 – 1880. © Public Domain, Museum Natur und Mensch Freiburg.

The image captures the serene atmosphere of the riverbanks. Gentle hills and clear waters provide respite from the hustle of daily life. Arashiyama was more than just a scenic spot. It was a social gathering place, particularly in spring and autumn. Here, the beauty of nature seamlessly blended with Kyoto’s slower way of life.

While cities like Tokyo were rapidly modernising, places like Arashiyama remained sanctuaries of community and continuity. These areas allowed people to escape the pressures of change, providing an opportunity to reconnect with the rhythms of nature.


This final image is my favourite photograph from my research. I see it as a symbol of the curiosity and positivity with which people in Japan embraced photography as part of their daily lives.

Drei japanische Frauen im Innenraum hockend, 1893. © Public Domain, Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg.

The three young women radiate an uninhibited cheerfulness. This is a reminder that even in an era of rapid change, moments of lightness and connection defined human interaction.

There’s also an intriguing detail that sets this image apart. All three women are wearing rings on their left hand. Rings were not historically part of Japanese dress. These subtle accessories hints at the growing influence of Western fashion and the blending of cultures during the Meiji era. This is a small sign of Japan redefining its identity, with people absorbing new trends while staying rooted in conventions.

In this single frame, we see the essence of the Meiji period. It was a society in transition, where old and new coexisted. Even the simplest moments carried the weight of history. It’s a beautiful note to end on, capturing the spirit of resilience, adaptability, and joy that defined the era.


“Japan in Transition: Everyday Life and Clothing in Historical Photographs” (original title: “Japan im Wandel: Alltag und Kleidung auf historischen Fotografien”) was exhibited at Ars Japonica in Hamburg. The exhibition curated by Dr. Carolin Becke explored the cultural shifts of the Meiji era through historical photographs from six German museum collections.


Le Chat (Mistral AI), as well as the WordPress AI Assistant, powered by OpenAI’s GPT technology, assisted in writing this blog post.

Cardiff-Japanese Lecture Series: ‘Kimono (and) Fashion in Japan’

This online public lecture titled ‘Kimono (and) Fashion in Japan’ is part of the Cardiff-Japanese Lecture Series which aims to explore and understand aspects of language learning for those studying Japanese language and culture at Cardiff University, as well as various learners, teachers and researchers with an interest in Japan. The event is funded by the Japan Foundation, London.

Abstract
Both inside and outside of Japan, kimono is commonly framed as the national costume of Japan, bestowing the garment with notions of tradition and stability. However, ever since the establishment of a widespread fashion system in the Edo period (1603-1868), kimono was worn in different ways to communicate individual and social characteristics such as status, occupation, gender and taste.

This talk sheds some light on the fashionable influences on the garment by examining the following questions; how was kimono marketed by members of the merchant class, who became affluent during the Edo period? In which way did the moga (モガ, ‘modern girls’) of the Taisho period (1912-1926) wear the garment? How is the retro style, which gained prominence due to magazines such as Kimono Hime (Shōdensha, 2003-2018) and Kimono Anne (TAC Shuppan, 2019-), connected to the popularity of kimono as an everyday garment in recent decades?

Watch the recording of the lecture to find out more!

Women’s Hakama: Female student’s school uniforms

Artist unknown.

The three young women depicted here are all wearing the first version of Japanese school uniforms, consisting of a hakama (袴) skirt worn over a short-sleeved furisode kimono. Hakama are wide trousers which were one of the main garments for men during the Edo period. These trousers were slightly modified and turned into skirts, being tied at one’s waist rather than one’s hip for the sake of becoming uniforms for young females.

Just like their male counterparts who adopted uniforms in 1879, the rising number of female students during the late 19th century likewise called for unified clothing on their part. Being adopted on a nationwide level in 1898 (and held in place until 1918), an emphasis was put on the functionality of the hakama / kimono ensemble within an environment in which students were expected to participate in regular practices of sports and physical exercise. The addition of boots or leather shoes, as well as a big ribbon in one’s hair would later come to quintessentially represent early female students of the Meiji and Taishō period.

Photograph by Elstner Hilton (1914-8).
「自転車に乗る女学生」from 新版引札見本帖、第1 (Meiji 36, 1903).
© National Diet Library (国立国会図書館), Tokyo.

gofuku-shō 呉服商: Drapery Stores

These images by Kobe-based photographer Teijiro Takagi (高木庭次郎) depict a so-called gofuku-shō (呉服商), a drapery store, during the Meiji (1868-1912) or Taishō period (1912-26). Panels of fabric are rolled out on the floor and hung up on the background, with customers examining the pieces of cloth they would like to have turned into kimono. Made from single bolts of cloth in a two-dimensional, flat manner, kimono are relatively simple garments to sew. Gofuku-shō did not just sell kimono fabric, but also orchestrated the extensive network, which included spinners, weavers, dyers, embroiderers, specialist thread suppliers, stencil makers and designers, involved in the creation of the individually commissioned garments₁. Some of Japan’s famous department stores such as Mitsukoshi originally started their business activities as gofuku-shō.

(₁) ‘Making Kimono’, Victoria and Albert Museum.

Shunshō Katsukawa (勝川春章), ‘The Cultivation of Silkworms’, (1767-1768).
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Toyohara Chikanobu: ‘Female Student with Umbrella’

This ukiyo-e woodblock print from the Meiji period (1868-1912) depicts a young female student presumably heading to one of her lessons. In a very fashionable manner, she is combining a checkered buttoned shirt with a cherryblossom-patterned kimono, showing off the undergarment’s band collar and sleeves with rounded cuffs. The black laced umbrella additionally confirms the young woman’s position as one of the fashion leaders of the era.

Toyohara Chikanobu (楊洲周延),「真美人 十四 洋傘をさす女学生」(Meiji 30, 1897).
© Ōta Memorial Museum of Art (太田記念美術館), Tokyo.